How to Care for a Rabbit: Housing, Hay, Handling and Vet Care
Rabbits are not low-maintenance starter pets. This guide covers the space, diet, company and health checks they need to live a long, healthy life.
Caring for a rabbit well comes down to four things: plenty of space to run and stand up, a diet built mostly on unlimited hay, the company of another rabbit, and regular vet care from a vet who knows rabbits. Rabbits commonly live around 8 to 12 years, so they are a long commitment rather than a short-term starter pet.
This guide walks through the basics. It is general information, not veterinary advice; contact your veterinarian with any questions about your own rabbit’s health.
Housing: think living area, not hutch
The old picture of a rabbit alone in a small hutch is out of date. UK welfare groups such as the Rabbit Welfare Association and PDSA describe a permanent living area of at least 3m x 2m x 1m high (roughly 10 x 6.5 x 3 feet) for a pair of rabbits as a minimum, with bigger being better. The shelter or hutch inside that area is just the bedroom.
Whether your rabbits live indoors or outdoors, the space should let them:
- Hop several times in a row, stretch out fully and stand on their back legs without touching the roof.
- Hide in an enclosed shelter with a doorway, ideally one per rabbit plus a shared space.
- Dig and forage in a box of soil, shredded paper or hay.
- Stay safe from predators, extreme heat, drafts and direct sun.
Indoor rabbits need the room rabbit-proofed: cover or lift electrical cables, block gaps behind furniture, and keep houseplants out of reach, since many are unsafe to chew. Most rabbits can be trained to use a litter tray filled with paper-based litter and topped with hay.
Diet: hay first, everything else second
Hay is the foundation of rabbit health. The RSPCA’s guidance puts hay and grass at about 85% of the diet, with a bundle of good-quality hay roughly the size of the rabbit offered every day. Chewing long fibers wears down teeth that grow continuously and keeps the gut moving.
| Food | Share of diet | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Hay or grass | About 85% | Unlimited, fresh, dust-free; never lawnmower clippings |
| Leafy greens and herbs | About 10% | A large handful daily, several types, introduced slowly |
| Pellets or nuggets | About 5% | A small measured amount; avoid muesli-style mixes |
| Treats | Occasional | Small pieces of fruit or carrot; carrots are high in sugar |
Fresh water should be available at all times, in a bowl or bottle that is cleaned daily. Change any part of the diet gradually, because sudden switches can upset a rabbit’s sensitive digestion. For a full list of safe greens and foods to avoid, see our guide to what rabbits can eat, and the RSPCA’s rabbit diet advice.
Company: rabbits need rabbits
Rabbits are social animals and generally do best with at least one other rabbit. Many rescues will only rehome rabbits in bonded pairs. A common, well-matched pairing is a neutered male and a neutered female, but any combination can work with careful introductions.
Humans and guinea pigs are not a substitute. Guinea pigs have different needs and communicate differently, and housing the two species together is generally discouraged. If you are adding a second rabbit, a rescue center or your vet can advise on bonding, which should be done gradually on neutral ground.
Handling: less lifting, more floor time
Rabbits are prey animals, and many find being picked up frightening. Their backs are also fragile; a panicked kick can cause serious spinal injury. The easiest way to build trust is to sit on the floor and let your rabbit come to you.
- Get down to their level and offer a piece of hay or a leafy green from your hand.
- Stroke the forehead and back gently once they are relaxed near you.
- If you must lift (for health checks or a vet trip), support the chest with one hand and the hindquarters with the other, holding them close to your body.
- Never pick a rabbit up by the ears or scruff, and keep lifts short and low to the ground.
Children should interact with rabbits sitting on the floor, with an adult supervising.
Grooming and daily checks
Rabbits groom themselves, but they still benefit from regular brushing, especially during molts and for long-haired breeds. Because rabbits cannot vomit, swallowed fur needs to pass through the gut, and a high-fiber diet helps with that.
A quick daily check catches problems early:
- Is your rabbit eating hay and producing plenty of normal, round droppings?
- Is the bottom clean and dry? A dirty rear end in warm weather attracts flies and raises the risk of flystrike, which is an emergency.
- Are the eyes and nose clear, and is your rabbit moving normally?
- Do nails look overgrown? Ask your vet to show you how to trim them safely.
Vet care, vaccines and neutering
Find a vet with rabbit experience before you need one; our guide to choosing a veterinarian explains what to ask. A first check-up soon after you bring a rabbit home is a good idea, followed by regular visits as your vet recommends.
Vaccines depend on where you live. In the UK, rabbits are routinely vaccinated against myxomatosis and both strains of rabbit viral hemorrhagic disease (RVHD1 and RVHD2). In the US, a vaccine for RHDV2 has been available since 2021 under USDA authorization, and the House Rabbit Society recommends vaccination. Ask your vet what is appropriate in your area, including for indoor rabbits.
Neutering is widely recommended by vets and rabbit welfare groups. It makes bonding easier, prevents unplanned litters and, in females, is commonly advised to reduce the risk of uterine cancer. Your vet can advise on timing.
When to call a vet right away
Rabbits hide illness well, so small changes matter. Contact your vet urgently, or an emergency vet if your clinic is closed, if your rabbit:
- Stops eating, eats much less than usual, or stops producing droppings. PDSA describes reduced appetite as a serious concern that can lead to gut stasis, an emergency (see PDSA’s advice on rabbits not eating).
- Has maggots or a soiled, smelly rear end (possible flystrike).
- Is hunched, sitting still and unresponsive, or grinding teeth loudly.
- Has difficulty breathing, a head tilt, or cannot use its legs.
- Has diarrhea or a bloated belly.
Bottom line
Rabbits are rewarding, intelligent pets, but they need far more than a hutch and a bowl of pellets. Give them generous space, unlimited hay, a bonded companion and a rabbit-savvy vet, and they can be part of your family for a decade or more. If you are still deciding whether a rabbit fits your household, our guide to choosing a small pet compares the options.
FAQ
Can a rabbit live alone?
Rabbits can survive alone, but welfare organizations recommend keeping them with at least one other rabbit because they are highly social. A neutered, bonded pair is the usual setup.
Can rabbits live outside?
They can, if the enclosure is large, secure from predators, sheltered from wind, rain and heat, and the rabbits have company. Indoor rabbits also need daily space to run, not just a cage.
How long do rabbits live?
Rabbits commonly live around 8 to 12 years, depending on breed, diet and health care. Some live longer.
Do indoor rabbits need vaccines?
Often, yes. Diseases such as RHDV2 can spread on shoes, clothing, hay and insects. Your vet can tell you which vaccines are recommended where you live.