New Kitten Supplies Checklist: The Essentials for Bringing a Kitten Home
A short, practical list of what a new kitten really needs on day one, how to set up a safe room, and what to add over the first few weeks.
A new kitten needs kitten food, food and water bowls, a litter box with unscented litter, a scratching post, a secure carrier, a few safe toys, a cozy bed or hideaway and a booked vet appointment. Set these up in one quiet room before your kitten arrives, so they can settle in a small, safe space before exploring the rest of the home.
Most other things, from cat trees to fancy feeders, can be added once you know your kitten’s personality.
Day-one essentials
| Item | What to look for |
|---|---|
| Kitten food | Start with what the shelter or breeder used. Choose a food labeled “complete and balanced” for growth or all life stages. Wet, dry or a mix are all options; ask your vet. |
| Food and water bowls | Shallow, wide, easy-to-clean stainless steel or ceramic. Place water away from food; some cats drink more that way. |
| Litter box | Low sides so a small kitten can climb in, uncovered at first. Plan to move up to a larger box as your kitten grows. |
| Litter and scoop | Unscented, fine-textured litter is a good start. Ask your vet if your kitten eats litter. |
| Scratching post | Sturdy, tall enough for a full stretch later, covered in a material like sisal rope or fabric. |
| Carrier | Hard-sided with a top opening or removable top makes vet visits easier. |
| Bed and hiding spot | A soft bed and a box or covered bed so your kitten can retreat. |
| Toys | Wand toys for interactive play, balls and small kicker toys too large to swallow. |
| Breakaway collar and ID (optional indoors) | Only a breakaway (quick-release) collar, fitted snugly enough that a leg cannot slip through. |
| Vet appointment | Bring any records of vaccines, deworming and tests. |
Set up a safe room
- Choose a quiet room like a bedroom or office that you can close off.
- Put the litter box on one side and food and water on the other. Cats generally do not like to eat near where they toilet.
- Add a bed, a hiding spot and the scratching post.
- Leave the open carrier in the room with a soft blanket inside, so it becomes a familiar place rather than something that only means the vet.
- Let your kitten explore at their own pace, then gradually open up more of the home over several days.
If you already have pets, keep them separate at first and follow a slow introduction plan; see how to introduce a new cat.
Kitten-proof the home
- Remove lilies entirely. All parts of true lilies and daylilies are highly toxic to cats, even pollen or water from the vase. Check any other houseplants before bringing them home.
- Put away string, thread, yarn, ribbon, hair ties and rubber bands. Swallowed string can cause a serious intestinal injury. Never pull on string you see in a kitten’s mouth or under the tail; call your vet.
- Secure cords, blind cords and small objects.
- Close toilet lids, washers and dryers, and check them before every use.
- Store medicines, cleaners and essential oils where a climbing kitten cannot reach.
- Check window screens and balconies for gaps.
- Save emergency numbers: your vet, a 24-hour emergency clinic, and the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center in the US.
In the first weeks
- A second litter box as your kitten grows or if they will have free run of a larger home. A common guideline is one box per cat plus one; see how many litter boxes per cat.
- Grooming tools: a soft brush or comb, and cat nail clippers. Short, calm handling sessions now make grooming easier for life.
- A cat tree or shelves for climbing and perching.
- Puzzle feeders to add some foraging to mealtimes.
- Parasite prevention chosen with your vet. Never use dog flea products on cats; some contain ingredients that are dangerous to them.
Paperwork
- Microchip and registration. Ask whether your kitten is chipped and register your details. In England, cats must be microchipped and registered by 20 weeks of age under rules that took effect in June 2024 (see GOV.UK).
- Vaccinations and spay/neuter timing are set by your vet. See the kitten vaccination schedule overview.
- Pet insurance, if you want it, is usually cheapest to start before any health issues appear.
What can wait
- Covered or self-cleaning litter boxes: try them only once your kitten reliably uses a box, and keep the old one available while switching.
- Large food stockpiles before you know what your kitten will eat.
- Clothing, which most cats do not need and many dislike.
For a fuller picture of the first months, including socialization and feeding, read how to care for a kitten. The ASPCA’s general cat care page is another good overview.
Bottom line
Prepare kitten food, bowls, a low litter box with unscented litter, a scratching post, a carrier, a bed, a few toys and a vet appointment. Set them up in one quiet room, remove lilies and string-like items, and add bigger purchases once your kitten has settled.
FAQ
Do kittens need special food?
Kittens need food formulated for growth or all life stages. Your vet can advise when to switch to adult food.
Should a kitten wear a collar?
It is optional for indoor kittens. If you use one, choose a breakaway collar, check the fit often as they grow, and rely on a registered microchip as permanent ID.
How many toys does a kitten need?
A handful is plenty. Interactive play with a wand toy each day matters more than a big toy basket. Put wand toys away after play so they are not chewed unsupervised.
When should my kitten see the vet?
Book a visit soon after adoption, and call sooner if your kitten has diarrhea, vomiting, sneezing with discharge, or stops eating.